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Professor Emeritus of Theatre, University of Colorado at Boulder Artistic Director Emeritus, Hong Kong Repertory Theatre

美國科羅拉多大學戲劇舞蹈系榮休教授，香港話劇團榮休藝術總監，莎士比亞權威名導 - 楊世彭

穿著格蘭訂製禮服出席國際重要場合，紳士優雅儀表場場精彩演出

格蘭深獲國際大導演的肯定！

陳和平《西裝穿著100問》序言

我的朋友陳和平先生在台灣的精製西服界，可說是位難得的英雄人物。他1976年出道，1989年到當時台北最著名的格蘭西服店向上海師傅的店主拜師學藝，三年後藝成，接手格蘭西服，年紀不過29歲。直到如今，這家坐落在中山北路二段的西服店仍然開張，而和平兄早就成為台灣精製西服界的翹首了。

二十年來和平兄一直努力把台灣品牌的精製西服推展到國際平台，最簡便的辦法就是參加亞洲地區及歐美地區的國際西服比賽。他從2000年起就經常參加這類行家的活動，也得過不少獎項，其中最令人稱道的就是2005年全國男裝比賽榮獲第一名，代表台灣參加德國第31屆“世界洋服聯盟年會”榮獲金針金線獎 “男裝總亞軍”的大獎；四年後在第33屆的年會中，他又獲得“男裝創意設計首獎”；由於這些榮銜，曾獲歷任總統及副總統六次召見表揚。

我跟和平兄的訂交也頗偶然。兩年前我籌備外百老匯得獎名劇《搶錢的世界》的台北演出，邀請了台大戲劇學系的王怡美教授擔任服裝設計。由於此劇的男主角賈非格是華爾街的成功老闆，對穿著十分講究，怡美就商請和平兄贊助這齣戲；結果不但男主角穿著筆挺的精製西服，連女主角及第二男主角都有量身定製的精彩服裝。至於報酬方面，肯定是象徵性的，因為我們的服裝預算有限，跟他通常收受的價目比起來，真是微不足道了。

我個人頗重服飾，過去也在台北香港訂製過好幾套西服，也曾購置大量英國及意大利名牌的服裝。結識和平兄後，我也曾在格蘭訂製兩套西服及一套Loro Piana凱西米毛料的便裝及搭配西褲。以我的觀察，和平兄的精製作品絕不比歐洲一級裁縫遜色，而他在量身試身方面的細緻，更不是一般訂製西服裁縫所能比擬。因此，我願把他推薦給國內外的西服愛好者，即使是那些多方挑剔的顧客。

和平兄由於職業上的便利，其實早就是台北上流社會的知名人物了，但他仍舊謙虛多禮，待人接物一團和氣。閣下假如有幸成為他的朋友，在台北從事商業活動時，說不定會得到一些料想不到的好處呢。

美國科羅拉多大學戲劇舞蹈系榮休教授

香港話劇團榮休藝術總監

楊世彭

2014年一月十五日

Preface to Peace Chen's 100 Tips for Suit Style

Peace Chen (Chen Heping 陳和平) is a legend among Taiwan bespoke suit tailors. He started his career in 1976. In 1989 he became a disciple of the most noted Shanghai tailor in Taipei who at the time ran the Grand Tailor shop on the Chung Shan Road North. Three years later, at age 29, he took over that operation and became the most noted tailor in Taiwan ever since. In the ensuing two decades Mr. Chen took part in international competitions and won major awards at the World Congress of Master Tailors, notably the 2nd place winner of men's suits at the 31st Congress in Berlin in 2005, and the Champion of Creative Design award at the 2009 Congress at Salzburg, Austria.

I got to know Mr. Chen two years ago when I directed the Off-Broadway award-winner comedy Other People's Money in Taipei. In that play the male lead Lawrence Garfinkle was a successful Wall Street liquidation expert who wears expensive bespoke suits. My costume designer was able to persuade Mr. Chen to take on that project. The result was not only the male lead had expensive-looking suits, the female lead and the second male lead also wore excellently tailored clothes. Mr. Chen apparently took only a nominal fee, for our costume budget was pittance when compared with the usual amount he charges his customers.

I have had two suits and a Loro Piana cashmere sports coat ensemble made at Mr. Chen's store. Before then I had had a number of bespoke suits made in Taipei and Hong Kong, and I had purchased quite a number of ready-made ones made by famous brands in Italy and England. I should say that the suits and the sports coat made by Mr. Chen were definitely superior--not only in the painstaking details in measurement and fittings, but also in material selection. I won't hesitate a moment to recommend him to other international customers, even the most discriminating ones.

I should also add that Mr. Chen is a well-known figure in Taipei society, a fine gentleman with good taste and a most pleasing personality. You'd be lucky if you became a friend of his.

Daniel S. P. Yang

Professor Emeritus of Theatre

University of Colorado at Boulder

Artistic Director Emeritus, Hong Kong Repertory Theatre

2014/1/15